My 5 favorite Residential Baseboard mouldings

With my experience designing dozens of residential interior spaces, I work with baseboards on a regular basis. Since there are many types and styles of baseboards, I want to share my five favorite baseboard mouldings, depending on the design of your space.

Baseboards serve three purposes:

  • provide a transition between the flooring and the wall
  • protect the wall from damage
  • offer decorative style

When choosing any moulding, it's important to consider the look and feel your space. Not only should the moulding you choose fit your preference, it should fit the style of your home. This is why I've categorized my favorite mouldings by style.

photo credit: www.crownmoldings.net

photo credit: www.crownmoldings.net

 

Modern or Transitional: Rectangular Baseboard

I usually specify 3/4" thick by 4" or 5" high rectangular solid wood baseboard. This baseboard can be painted or have a natural or stained wood grain finish and complements almost any space. This is my go-to baseboard for most interior spaces. 

 

 

 

photo credit: blog.buildllc.com

photo credit: blog.buildllc.com

 

Sleek Modern: Recessed Baseboard

Much of my work and tastes lean towards modern, so another version of the rectangular base I often use consists of installing baseboard so that it is recessed, with a small "reveal" above, as the image shows. This style of baseboard provides a very clean look, but it does come with a bit more labor. Since the baseboard is aligned with the wall, this style very functional with barn doors, so the door does not have to bypass a baseboard that stands proud of the wall.

photo credit: www.crownmoldings.net

photo credit: www.crownmoldings.net

 

 

Pre-War, Transitional or Traditional: Decorative Baseboard

For pre-war, transitional or traditional styled interiors, I love to use Dykes 355 baseboard for 8' to 8.5' ceilings, or something like Walzcraft 1829 for higher spaces. The ogee (an "S" shaped profile) on top is graceful and provides attractive proportions that accent these spaces well. 

 

 

 

 

photo credit: pinterest.com

photo credit: pinterest.com

Modern or Transitional: Rectangular Baseboard with a Little Flourish

One more option for rectangular baseboards, especially in traditional or modern spaces, is to include a cut-out on top for added ornamentation. This style, shown in my portfolio photo at the top of this post, uses the same 3/4" thick by 4" or 5" high rectangular solid wood baseboard but with a little cut-out on top. This feature adds a little flourish and a shadow line to the baseboards, and again, it can be painted or have a natural or stained wood grain finish.


photo credit: www.crownmoldings.net

photo credit: www.crownmoldings.net

High Ceiling Heights: Tall Rectangular Baseboard

For modern spaces with high ceilings, sometimes clients want something a little different. In these cases, a taller version of the regular rectangular baseboard does a great job of adding elegance to interior spaces. 3/4" thick by 7", 9" or higher rectangular solid wood baseboard works perfectly here. Again, baseboards can be painted or have a natural or stained wood grain finish.

 

 

 

 

What Not to Do:

Please do not use door casing, clamshell or rubber baseboard for a space that's visually important to you. While those materials do serve a purpose in spaces like a garage or closet, using them in open interior spaces is an eyesore to a designer!  

Renovating or redesigning any room in your home is an exciting project, and it's easy to find inspiration and ideas for important aspects like paint colors, furniture styles, wall placements and more. Just don't forget that the small details in a room are just as important as the larger ones! Take time to plan your baseboard style and ensure that the material you want meshes well with the rest of your room. After all, you want to love everything about this space, not just the lighting and throw pillows! 

by Anjie Cho


Roll Up Your Sleeves, It’s Time to Paint!

Love the paint color you've picked out! You’ve done your due diligence and you’re about to head out to the store to pick up gallons of that gorgeous color your walls have been begging for! But wait. Now what? How many gallons do you buy? Do you need to do anything to prep the walls? How much time should you set aside for this project? Keep reading.

How many gallons?

You’re going to need to do a little math. Add the length of the walls and multiple that by the height of the room to determine the square footage of your space. Don’t put away the calculator, because you’re not done yet. Now subtract the square footage of each door and window in the room. If you want a rough estimate, you can assume 20 sq. ft. for each door and 15 sq. ft. for each average-sized window. Now you have an approximate idea of how large a surface area you’ll be painting. A gallon of paint will provide one coat to roughly 350 sq. ft. of wall. 

How many coats?

No matter what color you’ve selected, plan on applying at least two coats for an even, complete finish. Darker colors might require 3 or 4 coats for a proper finish. Don’t forget to factor each coat into your surface-area figures above in order to ensure you’ve bought enough paint. Multiply your square footage by the number of coats to determine exactly how much paint you’re going to need. 

But wait, first things first.

You’ve determined how much paint you’ll need, but before you run out to pick up your gallon(s), there’s more to add to your shopping list. A fresh coat of paint deserves a smooth canvas. You’ll need to spackle existing nail holes, fill cracks, and prime the wall. All of that requires supplies. You’ll also need a role of blue tape, rollers, brushes and other related items. Make your shopping list and pick up all your supplies at once before you roll up your sleeves and get to work.

Do you need to skim coat?

Good question. There are a several reasons why you’ll need to consider a skim coat (aka applying a layer of mud/joint compound to the wall.)

  • Are you covering existing decorative texture treatments?

  • Are you blending an existing dry wall with a newly installed section?

  • Are you working on a section of wall that has been patched and repaired?

  • Are you refinishing walls that were recently adorned with wallpaper or other treatments like stenciling and painted patterns?

If you can answer "yes" to any of these questions, you’ll want to read up on skim coating here: The What and Why of Skim Coating.

Prime. Just do it.

There is not a question here. Yes. You need to prime. If you’re working with new drywall or recently skim coated walls, primer will help seal and ready the walls for its new hue. If you’re painting a lighter color over a darker one, primer will help quell the bold shade and ready it for its more muted replacement. If you’ve simply spackled and sanded nail holes and/or repaired small cracks with mesh and spackle, prime to ensure a more uniform finish to your final color. 

How long do you wait between coats?

Just because your wall looks dry and feels dry to the touch doesn’t mean it’s ready for the next coat. At minimum, figure you’ve got enough time to fit in dinner and a movie. In other words, give your walls at least four hours between coats. Poor ventilation, cool temperatures, high humidity and other facts can slow the process down, however. It you want to be safe, consider calling it a day after one coat and pick up where you left off the following day.

by Anjie Cho